12 hours later it's still hard to put it all into words, because the movie is just that big and has to many themes and plots and characters that have to sink in.
The overall theme really worked for me and the switching between the different storylines went surprisingly smooth, even without having read the book. I'd definitely have to see it again to appreciate every aspect and hint.
I found the acting was top notch. The make-up however ranged from perfect to silly (especially in the Korean section and when changing genders). That didn't take me out of the story, though. Plus it was fun to find the actors in different roles all the time.
I am very sad this film did so poorly in the US. It's a bold achievement that requires concentration and an open mind and stays with you for quite a while, I am sure.